Soho wasn't just London's bohemian playground - it was a proving ground for medical ideas too radical for the establishment. This walking tour traces the district's surprising role in British healthcare history, from pioneering hospitals for women's health, ear disease and venereal disease, to London's most famous private anatomy school. Along the way, meet the outsiders and revolutionaries who shaped medicine here, contrasted through two very different women: Mary Seacole at the journey's start, and Florence Nightingale near its end in St James's. Drawing on Nick Black's book Walking London's Medical History, the route covers 1.3 miles and around an hour of walking.
Highlights:
- The site of Britain's first ear dispensary, founded in 1816, which grew into the Royal Ear Hospital.
- The London Lock Hospital, a pioneering (and controversial) venereal disease clinic dating to 1862.
- A finish at the Guards Crimean War Memorial, via Soho Square, Leicester Square and Canada House.
Starts at the station's Oxford Street exit. Before arrival, install the VoiceMap app and use the code provided on your ticket. This is a self-guided audio tour that you can start, pause, or restart any time and complete at your own pace. Directions to the starting point are in the app.
We will walk round this small green oasis and see where Mary Seacole lived on her return from the Crimean war, the site of the first dispensary for children, the first hospital for women, the first home of the Royal Ear Hospital and the site of the original homes of the Dental Hospital of London and National Heart Hospital.
Sadly, little remains of the square's 18th century connections with health care which included displays of medicinal mud bathing aided by 'a bevy of belles' and the home of John Hunter, the founder of modern surgery. However, we can still see the old Royal Dental Hospital, now the Hampshire Hotel.
Dean Street has hardly changed shape in 300 years, but its facades hide a startling medical history. Walk past number 33, home to Dr Joseph Rogers, the workhouse physician The Lancet dubbed the "Hercules of workhouse reform" for forcing better care into London's Poor Law infirmaries. Further along stood the London Lock Hospital, Britain's pioneering (and stigmatised) clinic for venereal disease, its 1912 facade still standing. Along the way, spot Karl Marx's old home and Soho's oldest pub.
Can you see the neo-classical building on the corner with six massive columns? This was designed by Robert Smirke for the Royal College of Physicians in 1827, although now it's part of the Canadian embassy. It may be grand but even at the time it was described as "severe almost to the point of dullness". Initially the physicians' college was based in Moorfields near the city of London where the emerging merchants and financiers, who could afford physicians' costs, lived. As the wealthy migrated west, so did the College, to this custom built home. In 1875 statues of three great physicians – Linacre, Harvey and Sydenham – were added in the three niches behind the columns but they left with the college in 1963. Their current home is in Regent's Park, where you can visit a museum and medicinal garden.
Pall Mall takes its odd name from "paille-maille," a croquet-like game once played along this stretch. Laid out in the 1660s under the Earl of St Albans, it became the heart of gentlemen's clubland: the Athenaeum, the Reform Club and the Travellers Club still line its length, alongside the Royal Automobile Club. In 1820 it was one of the first streets in the world lit by gas. At its eastern end, Waterloo Place holds the Guards Crimean War Memorial, with its statue of Florence Nightingale.
Our walk ends here in St James', the heart of establishment London and world away from Bohemian Soho. This war memorial is unusual for not only honouring soldiers but also a remarkable nurse - Florence Nightingale - whose influence is still felt today internationally.
Hear how, in the 1820s, Robert Smirke designed the northern half of this building for the Royal College of Physicians and southern half for the Union Club, a gentlemen's club. After both left, it became the Canadian High Commission.
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This experience is non-refundable and cannot be changed for any reason. If you cancel or ask for an amendment, the amount you paid will not be refunded.
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