About Nevado Quitaraju: Quitaraju is situated south-eastwards of Alpamayo. Obviously Quitaraju does not get half as much attention as Alpamayo does, there are even more parties climbing the Alpamayo, but less parties climbing has the Nevado Quitaraju. It is a really nice mountain with great views of it’s south face, the Alpamayo, Artesonrajo, Huascaran(s), Chopicalqui. The easiest route is W ridge, graded AD, but very very long, sustained and steep in places. North face is really nice, being graded D, 700m, inclination of about 55° degrees. Different variants have different grades, so a tougher climber could find some 60-70 degree climbing going some 50m left or right from the arete in upper part of the face.
Quitaraju/Kitarahu (Ancash Quechua kita dam,Quechua rahu snow, ice, mountain with snow, hispanicized spellings Quitarajo, Quitaraju, also Kitaraju) is a mountain in the Cordillera Blanca in the Andes of Peru, about 6,040 metres (19,816 ft) high. It is situated in the Ancash.
We pick up at our main office: Av. Mariscal Toribio de Luzuriaga 475, 2nd Floor, Huaraz - Peru.
After a good breakfast, we’ll take our minibus to the Santa Valley, north of the small village of Yungay via Santa river, we continue our private car to Portachuelo Pass (4650 m) on the east side of the Cordillera Blanca. We arrive in the village of Vaqueria (3,750 m). In this small village our pack animals are waiting. We take a short hike to our camp at Huaripampa (3,550 m). And continue our route takes us farther up the Huaripampa valley, past Paria (3,800 m). Continue to trekking to Amapampa our camp (4250 m) Overnight Camp
Today we cross Punta Union Pass. From the pass we can see all of the Santa Cruz valley and the trail that we will follow. After stopping for a while on the pass for photos, we descend to Taullipampa camp (4,250 m) and then continue to Quitaraju Base Camp. From this point we can already see Quitaraju , the goal of our expedition. Camp at Quebrada Arhuecocha (4,300 m). Overnight Camp
Today we have a good breakfast and prepare the expedition equipment for Alpamayo, from here we begin using a local team (porters, cook and local guides), who will help us carry everything. We set out for the moraine after a small lunch in Base Camp. The trail takes us across the steep moraine at the tongue of the glacier to Moraine Camp (4,900 m).
Alpamayo High Camp is on the steep glacier at the base of Alpamayo and Quitaraju. Due to the constant shrinkage of the glacier, every year we find a different situation along this section. We find magnificent views from High Camp the summit looks close enough to touch! We have dinner a bit early because we must rise very early, for the long day that awaits us tomorrow. High Camp (5300 m).
Summit day! One possible route is the French route, a 60 to 70 degree wall of ice which narrows toward the top. . Above the wall, you need to conquer a few meters to the highest point of the narrow ridge. At the summit, you will be rewarded with a magnificent view of the Cordillera Blanca! The neighboring peak of Alpamayo (5,947 m) is almost within striking distance; and to the southwest you can see the remarkable summit of Huascarán (6,768 m.) After a brief rest and photos at the summit, we return quickly to High Camp via a rappel down the route we came up. In good weather, the climb to the summit and return to base camp can be done before noon. The ascent takes 6-7 hours, while the descent takes about 2-3 hours. If participants are tired, we can stay one more night in High Camp. If everyone feels fine, which is usual, we descend to Quitaraju/Alpamayo Base Camp (4,300 m)
Today we rise early in order to begin our hike, descending through the Santa Cruz valley to Cashapampa (about 6 hours.) In this village our minibus awaits to take us and the local expedition team back to Huaraz. Lodging at the hotel.
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